Mending and Darning
I began sewing when I was around 12 years old. I loved that I could make my own clothes, alter clothes, make little zippered bags, and so forth. It supported younger me’s need to have semi-immediate results. I could buy the fabric today, wash and dry it, make a dress, and wear it tomorrow. I did fix and alter clothing but mostly by machine. Fixing big ole holes clothes meant grabbing one of those iron-on doodads. So, I started my current mending journey with iron-on doodads. In the winter of 2022, I decided I need to address the massive pile of clothing to be mended.
One by one I mended and learned along the way. I checked books out from the library and purchased the ones that I thought were truly helpful to refer to and not just inspirational and aspirational. Every time I see a cute mend, my first questions are “Has it been worn several times?” and “Has it been washed several times?” Sure it looks cute now, but how does it wash and wear.
As I worked through the details I learned more about mending and even removed iron-on patches to make stronger and better looking mends.
If I had to buy just one book, I would buy Hikaru Noguchi’s Darning: Repair, Make, Mend.
Lewis-Fitzgerald, Erin. Modern Mending: How to minimize waste and maximize style. Search Press, 2022.
Full of techniques and creative strategies to mend. Glossy, full color, and close-up—all of which are helpful when you are learning to mend.
Martin, Molly. The Art of Repair. Mindful Mending: How to stitch old thing to new life. Short Books, 2021.
This book is so delicious that I rationed reading it! There are not a ton of photos but that’s made up for with detailed descriptions of the techniques and the case studies. There were a couple techniques that I’d not come across before that I immediately added to my cache of mending strategies.
Noguchi, Hikaru. Darning: Repair, Make, Mend. Quickthorn, 2019
This is hands-down my favorite darning book. The details in the writing, the details in the photos—all super helpful. This was the second book I bought and I love it! It is power packed and leaves few questions.The author also mends live on Instagram from time to time and watching the recordings if you miss them live is helpful. I also like that the author makes wonky stitches, learning by doing, using what you have, throwing out any rules a part of a darning philosophy. There are talented folks with decades of experience mending and darning, textile artists with mind blowing darning work (and books)—but what about those of us who are just trying to mend that sweater or pair of jeans so that we can continue to enjoy them? Just get into it—we wear clothing every day so why not carve out a little time each day or week to do a wee bit of mending.
Noguchi, Hikaru. Creative Mending: Beautiful Darning, Patching, and Stitching Techniques. Tuttle Publishing, 2022.
At first glace this might seem like a redux of Darning: Repair, Make, Mend but it is not. There are even more mending and darning techniques.
And the rest of the list. These books come in a strong second to the books above.
Briscoe, Susan. The Book of Boro: Techniques and Patterns Inspired by Traditional Japanese Textiles. David and Charles, 2020.
Horiuchi, Harumi. Mending with Boro: Japanese Running Stitch and Patching Techniques. Tuttle Publishing, 2019
Montenegro, Nina and Sonya. Mending Life: A Handbook for Repairing Clothes and Hearts. Sasquatch Books, 2020.
Pennant, Sky. Well Worn: Visible Mending for the Clothes You Love. Princeton Architectural Press, 2024.
Supplies
I order hand mending needles, threads, and other supplies from Snuggly Monkey (NC), Shibori Dragon (CA) and Upcycle Stitches (VA).
Wawak (NY) is good resource if you are looking for zippers (can’t find new ones that work for your project an/or don’t have any to reclaim) and they also carry a ton of other sewing supplies.
Favorite Needles
The challenge that I found with hand darning is matching fabric to thread to needle. For example denim to sashiko thread to a needle or fine linen to fine cotton thread to a needle.
The Needle needs to slide easily through the cloth while not making an huge hole or snagging, the thread needs to slide easily in the eye of the needle. It is hard to just guess from online shops and selection in big box store is limited. I started with buying an assortment of inexpensive needles and threads in person and a few online. The sashiko threads and needles offered by Wawak “go together” (Olympus for example) which is nice but you might find that you need to try other needles.
Among my favorite needles and most frequently used are Tulip brand sashiko needles both short and long, Lecien Hidamari sashiko needles No. 4345, Bohin chenille needles size 22, and John James Long Darners. A needle that you like and performs well on your mending project is worth the hassle to find—there is a noticeable difference between inexpensive needles from the big box store and higher quality needles that cost a buck each. But, I started with just cheap needles and they worked fine for the first winter that I mended.
Favorite Threads
While embroidery floss are polyester wrapped cotton are easy to find, in my experience I prefer sashiko threads. They are worth every single penny. I’ve use several brands and Daruma is my current favorite—this changes bases on what I’m mending and what’s in my sewing box and basket.